Writer aiongorora Heinrich Harrer: Biography, basa, yakanakisisa mabhuku, uye zvinonakidza zvinhu

Hwake uye mabhuku ake akawanda dzinoongororwa nemaonero nhengo yebato reNazi, kuita mhedziso pamusoro vavariro simba rake mitambo uye Nokugona. Heinrich Harrer aigara aiona vari pfungwa uye uto yechiFascist sangano sechinhu involuntary uye kwete zvakakwana zvinodiwa, kunyange akaedza haana kuratidza izvozvo. Kana musingadi vachikoshesa zvikuru kukosha enyika maonero Harrer, tinogona chete nokuwirirana kusimba uye ushingi iyi yakakurumbira mountaineer uye mufambi.

makore okutanga

Akaberekerwa muna 1912 mune duku yeAustria guta Obergossene, mumhuri mabha- mushandi Yozefa Harrera wake Johanna. Muna 1927 vakanga vatamira Graz, apo Heinrich Harrer sekondari uye akapinda University of Karl Franz. Kubva 1933 kusvika 1938 akadzidza jogirafi uye dzidzo panyama panguva imwecheteyo kushanda kukwira makomo uye Skiing.

Akanga ari mumiriri kubatanidzwa muna Winter Olympic Games 1936, yakaitirwa Germany. Asi Austria boycotted nokuti chargeability muna Zvikwenzi Skiing kune nyanzvi kuti kutorambidza kubva Olympic dzakatenuka. Muna 1937, Heinrich Harrer akakunda downhill makwikwi, yaisanganisira ari purogiramu World Student Games, asi rava chido chechokwadi nokuda kukwira nayo.

North Face of Eiger

Pakazopera kosi kuyunivhesiti nokuda Harrer akanga akawanda gomo achikwidza chikamu chikuru pakati kunzwisisa. Muna 1938, pamwe chete neshamwari yake uye countryman Fritz Kasparek, Heinrich Harrer rinouya kukunda kunozivikanwa "Wall Rufu" - rwokumusoro chiso guru girenayiti Pyramid kukwirira 3970 metres, wakabereka zita Eiger muna Swiss Alps.

rusvingo urwu akaramba unclimbed kwenguva refu, kunyange nokuedza kuti kwakauraya vanhu vakawanda. Routes vanowanika kurutivi Eiger rwokumusoro chiso, kuoma Geological nemamiriro pamusoro okunze uye mamiriro ezvinhu munharaunda. Pamusoro ndokudzora dzakawanda avalanches, potse yakafukidzirwa chando uye ane avhareji yakatenuka 75 inegumi, uye mune dzimwe nzvimbo uye kunaka kutsvetera.

Yakakwirira kakawanda rockfalls uye avalanches, kukurumidza kuchinja mamiriro okunze akaita pamukwidza kurutivi rwokumusoro pamberi Eiger zvinouraya. Somugumisiro, hurumende akavhara yakatenuka kuti makomo uye vanunuri gomo vakaramba kununura vaya zvasvika yavo iri nzira.

July 24, 1938

Nechekare pamusoro pamadziro Austrians Kasparek uye Harrer mune svinga pamwe makomo maviri German - Anderle Hekmayerom uye Ludwig Vorgom kuti akatora mamwe zvakavimbika midziyo kuti ndima chando pamusoro. Vagari kuedza kukwira ibudirire, pasinei dzimwe disruptions kana kuponeswa inishuwarenzi chete, uye kupinda imwe aval, umo akaponesa chete rakavimbika zvokushandisa, kushivirira nokutsungirira. Heinrich Harrer, ane mabhuku kazhinji tsanangura ayo nzendo siyana, akaudza pashure pamusoro chiitiko ichi muna vhidhiyo yokufungidzira "The White Spider" (1959).

Kubudirira yeAustria-German boka makomo kwakaitika chete kwemwedzi mitatu mushure annexation Austria kubudikidza Nazi Germany, mashoko anoparadzirwa Nazi akaita chiratidzo mhosva hasha wokuti Fascism. Harrer pamwe nevamwe Eiger vakundi vakagamuchira vakawanda chinokudza uye mibayiro, uyewo vateereri pamwe Hitler uye nevamwe vatungamiriri eNazi.

Rwendo kune eHimalaya

Climbing kushandisirwa zvemitambo, izvo muNazi Germany, akapiwa vainyatsotarisirwa. Kukunda vertices itsva uye achipfuura unexplored migwagwa anoparadzirwa aHitler akaona Nezvezvaifananidzirwa kuuya kwaizoita nyika yacho Aryan Nation. With ganging unokwezva ichi aHitler pamwe usingaonekwi dzidziso Shambhala - the kunozivikanwa nyika inogarwa supermen, tinazvo ruzivo kuti asingakundiki uye ane masimba ose.

Maererano nengano, yemamongi ichi yaiva pakati eHimalaya Nhongonya, zvichida muna Tibet - asinganzwisisiki nyika, iyo akakwanisa kuverengwa navatorwa, uye pamusoro hapana mashoko chaiwo kubva vokuEurope. Saka, kuziva zvakawanda nzendo kuti makomo German zvakarongwa kuongorora nzvimbo. Hazvizivikanwi kuti chinangwa chaiva kunotsvaka ngano Shambhala eHimalaya rwendo muna 1939, chikamu yaiva yaisanganisira Harrer, asi ndicho nezvazvo kakawanda vanoti vaongorori, inovapo pamusana ndechokuti yakakurumbira mufambi, refu kuvigwa kwake kare Nazi.

Ubanguranyika nzira musi Nanga Parbat

Rwendo refu, iyo kwakaguma yakakurumbira bhuku avo akanyora Heinrich Harrer - "Makore manomwe mu Tibet", akanga zvainanga Pakugadzirira kukunda mumwe eHimalaya nenhongonya - inofa Nanga Parbat, riri kuchamhembe kwakadziva kumadokero eHimalaya, yaimbova British nyuchi - India.

Pashure nzira itsva pamusoro pokutanga wechitatu nhamba yokusagadzikana vaiedza kuitora, kuti makomo German pamusoro kuwa 1939 vaiva Karachi, muchimirira chikepe kudzokera Europe wawanikwa. Ngarava yakanga wavharirwa. Uye nguva pfupi September 1 - musi mukutanga Hondo Yenyika II uye pashure mukova naye UK - September 3 - vakanga mundima muvengi uye vakasungwa.

vanobudirira kupunyuka

Kuedza kunzvenga - kuroorwa uye mumapoka - nesimba yeAustria kubvira pakutanga yevasungwa ake. Mushure chikwata yavo yakanga iri mumusasa kupanichwa, riri mujinga mezvikomo eHimalaya, nokuti Harrer akava pachena vatize - kuburikidza gomo pemipata pakati Tibet. Movement munzvimbo ine makomo yose, kunyange nokuda vakadzidziswa mutambi - zvisiri nyore kuti zvinoda kugadzirira, kubudirira saka aifanira Harrer hachisi kuedza kutanga.

Mode mumusasa, apo akarayira yakabudirira Varungu pachena yakasiyana chaizvo vaya akarayira kuti vanhu vokuGermany akaita musungwa hondo Eastern Front. Naizvozvo, Harrer neshamwari dzake vaiva nomukana wakanaka kwazvo kugadzirira akapukunyuka. Asi kunyange ipapo, kusvikira kumuganhu India uye Tibet hatina tasvika zvose - vakawanda vanosarudza kudzokera kumusasa. In Lhasa - Tibet kuti guta - pamwe Harrer akanga Peter Aufschnaiter, iyo kazhinji vanotaurwa chete autobiography, rakanyorwa Heinrich Harrer.

"7 Makore mu Tibet"

Books akaita yeAustria mufambi wakakurumbira, rine zvakawanda pamusoro nyika, apo kuwana vatorwa zvairambidzwa nemutemo. Paiva Kufembera rimwe vachenjeri, maererano iyo Tibet vakarasika kwayo rusununguko pashure pachava vatorwa. Saka, pakutanga Harrer uye shamwari yake akanzwa ruvengo vose Tibetans - uye vafudzi nyore uye anokudzwa vakuru.

It zvachinja munzira dzakawanda nokuda kuchinja pachavo vanonyanya kutaurwa - asiri mutsekwende pamatunhu nzira, uchisangana nzira zvisingatarisirwi upenyu Tibetans, kujairirana chitendero chavo anoramba mhirizhonga chisikwa chipenyu chimwe, vakasiya pasina zvisaririra ari mweya womunhu, kunyange pakutanga akaparadzanisa vanozvikudza pfungwa Nazi.

Namana Dalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - musimboti mhenyu Buddha, mutungamiri Tibet, imwe mukomana kuongorora anoda kudzidza zvakawanda pamusoro nyika yomudzimu, riri zviuru zvemakiromita kubva yokumusha kwake - mumwe gamba bhuku. Heinrich Harrer uye Dalai Lama, vakapindira kuzivana muna 1940, vakatsigira okusuma Harrer kusvikira parufu rwake muna 2006, kushanda yakasimba yakawiriranwa rokuchinja mumwe. Hazvina kubva yeAustria, vakura nemakore 26, ari Dalai Lama akadzidza zvakawanda pamusoro tsika European, zvesayenzi uye michina nebudiriro modernity.

Izvi zvakaita kuti kupomerwa kuti Tibetan vaBuddha kubva Chinese nezviremera, inorwadza kuhupenyu kumubvunzo Tibet rusununguko, ukama nevaNazi. Ukuwo, simba guru Dalai Lama mune zvematongerwo enyika munyika, iyo, pasinei pakuzvipira dzidziso yekare yechitendero, munhu vasingasiyani kubva budiriro ano, uyewo zvinobva muchiwadzana ichi vaviri vechiduku (kunyanya kutonga nezvinooneka firimu muna 1994), simbi shamwari chaidzo.

Pahwaro zviitiko izvi uye akasika Bestseller ake Heinrich Harrer. "Makore manomwe mu Tibet" uye bara-bhuku iri firimu hwake Brad Pitt achitungamirira basa - akaita zita rake nomukurumbira munyika. Kunyange pashure pokunge adzokera kumusha kwake muna 1950, akaita chaizvo kukwira uye nzvimbo, mubasa siyana evanhu mabasa, iye akabudisa mabhuku anopfuura 20. Harrer Zvinowanzotaurwa kuti mapeji chakajeka hwake, kuti sezvo Tibet nokusingaperi kwaigara mumwoyo make.