American mukwiri Scott Fischer, uyo akakunda kukwirira Lhotse: Biography

Scott Fisher - mukwiri, atova 20 makore akaratidza nenyanzvi zvechokwadi kukunda regomo twi. Asi vazhinji inozivikanwa kuti tsaona musi Everest muna 1996, apo masikati akauraya 8 vanhu vatatu nzendo, kusanganisira Fischer pachake.

Tanga vachikweva kukwira makomo

Somwana isu vanorota zvikuru umhare basa. Asitironati, u, lifeguard, mutyairi, mukuru - nechokuita imwe ngozi uye saka tsvaka saka uchidanana mumeso mwana. Scott Fischer pa 14 vaiziva hwaizova kukwira gomo. Makore maviri gare gare makosi vari padombo kukwira. Akabva sekondari uye vatungamiriri wava mumwe yakanakisisa nyanzvi vanodzidzisa pamusoro kukwira makomo. Mumakore aya akanga vobatanidzwa pakukunda YOMUMAKOMO twi.

Muna 1982, mudzimai wake Jean, akatamira Seattle. Pano vana vakaberekwa Fischer, Andy uye Keti Rouz.

kukunda Lhotse

Scott Fischer, soro nenhanho mukwiri, akava wokutanga American kukwira makomo, muchikunda kukwirira Lhotse, wechina pakukura kukwirira.

"Pamusoro Southern" (sezvo rakashandurwa eightthousanders) iri muna eHimalaya, pamuganhu China uye Nepal. Rakakamurwa zvitatu points. Today vakaisa nzira dzakawanda, asi kukunda Lhotse iri kusimba kunzwisisa. Rasai South rusvingo kuonekwa zvinenge zvisingaiti. Ita izvozvo zvinogona chete kuraira makomo Soviet muna 1990. Namanomwe vanhu vaishanda uchinyatsobatanidzwa kuti vanokwira kumusoro aigona chete vaviri.

"Mountain Upengo"

Simba uye enterprising, Scott Fischer muna 1984 akazarura kambani yake nokuda dzemakomo Tours. Pakutanga basa shoma inofarirwa makomo - musimboti muupenyu pataikwira. Kambani zvakamubatsira kuita paanoda. Kwenguva refu, "Mountain Upengo" kwakanga kwava kuzivikanwa kambani pakufamba. All kuti akachinja 90s, kana kukunda Everest zvamakarota ndaviga zvavo vashanyi. Ruzivo yomumakomo makomo vakava vatungamiriri kufamba achida kukwira kumusoro nokuda mari. Pfungwa commercialization pamusoro Everest. Kune makambani, chive kumativi Nemutengo akavimbisa kuronga kukwira kumusoro. Vakatora pamusoro kukurukura nhengo rwendo kumusasa nechigadziko, mukugadzirira vatori vechikamu pamukwidza uye kutsigirwa munzira. Nokuti mukana wokuva mumwe vakundi Everest vanoshuva aisa panze yakakura inopfupikisa - kubva 50 kusvika 65 zviuru zvemadhora. Panguva iyoyowo varongi kuti nzendo havana hunovimbisa kubudirira - gomo vasingagoni kuzvipira.

Scott Fischer aiva rwendo kuGomo Everest. Zvikonzero sangano rayo

Kubudirira yezvokutengeserana nzendo mamwe makomo, kusanganisira Rob Hall, kumanikidzwa Fisher kufunga nzira eHimalaya. Sezvo akazoudza maneja Karen Dickinson, chisarudzo yakanga zvinosiyana nguva. Vatengi vakawanda vanoda kuenda yakakwirira nyika. Scott Fischer, Mount Everest nokuti chakanga kwete nzira yakaomesesa, kubudikidza iyoyo wambonyatsofungisisa sei kuti nguva rokuchinja upenyu. Rwendo kuna eHimalaya Aizomurega kutaura pachavo uye kuratidza chii anokwanisa kambani yake. Kana akabudirira, aigona kuvimba vatengi itsva, uchirega voisa mari yakawanda kuti mukana kukwira pamusoro peGomo Everest.

Ichienzaniswa nedzimwe makomo, vane mazita asina vakaburuka mapeji magazini, haana uyewo kuzivikanwa. vanhu vashoma vanoziva ani Scott Fisher. Everest akamupa mukana ave nomukurumbira kubudirira rwendo "Mountain Upengo". Chimwe chikonzero kuti akaita mukwiri kuenda rwendo urwu, aiva vachiedza kugadzirisa mufananidzo kwayo. Aiva nomukurumbira vakashinga uye richizvitenda dzakakwirira kukwira. vatengi Most akapfuma ake Style nengozi angadai wandaida. The rwendo raiva Sandy Hill Pittman, mumwe mutori wenhau kuti pepanhau. Her nemushumo pamukwidza hwaizova okushambadza zvikuru Scott Fisher uye boka rake.

Zvakaitika 1996 musi Everest

Nezvedambudziko iri eHimalaya, taitaura chaizvo. Chronology zviitiko akanga rakanyorwa kubva pamashoko vapona nzendo nhatu uye zvapupu. 1996 akava mumwe kupfuura zvinosuwisa kuti vakundi Everest - 15 vavo havana kudzokera kumba. vanhu vasere vakaurayiwa rimwe chete: Rob Hall uye Scott Fischer, vatungamiriri rwendo, nhengo nhatu mapoka avo uye zvitatu makomo kubva Indo-Tibetan Border Service.

The matambudziko akatanga mukutanga pamukwidza. Sherpas (veko-conductors) havana kukwanisa kumisa zvose njanji, izvo seiyi zvikuru pasi yavaipora. Varambidzwa uye vashanyi vakawanda nhasi iri reshivshiesya kukwirira kuedza. Somugumisiro munhu zvakaoma purogiramu kukwira rakatyoka. Vaya vanoziva kuti zvinokosha kuti vadzoke nenguva, kudzokera kumusasa uye akagara ari mupenyu. Vamwe vakaramba kukura.

Rob Hall uye Skott Fisher kure shure vamwe vechikamu. The yokupedzisira yaiva murombo utano pamberi kutanga rwendo, asi akavanzira chokwadi ichi kubva vamwe. Ake aneta vakaona panguva unokwira, izvo chaizvo kujairika kuzvishandisa uye kushingaira mukwiri.

By zvina o'clock masikati vakasvika pamusoro, asi chaiyo sezvo mangwanani sezvo vaviri maawa vaifanira kutanga anoburukira. Panguva ino, chiedza pechidzitiro rakafukidza gomo ikava blizzard. Scott Fisher akaburuka pamwe Sherpa Lopsangom. Kunenge panguva ino ezvinhu ake dzakaderera zvikuru. Zvinofungirwa kuti mukwiri akatanga kuzvimba uropi uye nemapapu, uye paiva Danho akasimba vaneta. Akanyengetedza Sherpa uburukire kumisasa uye rubatsiro.

Anatoly Boukreev, mutungamiriri "Mountain Upengo" nhasi akaponesa vashanyi matatu oga vachidziendesa mumusasa. Akaedza kaviri kusimuka kuna Fischer kudzidza kubva adzoka Sherpa mukwiri pamusoro mamiriro, asi razero maonero uye simba mhepo haana kumubvumira kuti kusvika musoro boka.

Morning Sherpas asvika Fisher, asi mugariro wake wakanga atova zvokuti vakasarudza chisarudzo zvakaoma kusiya panzvimbo, tora wakasununguka. In mumusasa vakaburukira Makalu Guo, ane mamiriro anobvumirwa kuita kudaro. Papera chinguva, pamberi Fischer akatambanudza uye Boukreev, asi makore 40 okuberekwa mukwiri vakafa panguva kuzara.

Zvinokonzera yakaitika pamwe Fischer nemamwe vaikwira mapato

Mountains - mumwe unokuvadza nzvimbo panyika. Nezana metres - nokukwirira panguva iyo munhu muviri havagoni kusimuka. Pakazosvika njodzi yakaipisisa anogona kukonzera chero, chikonzero chinonyanya vasingakoshi. Kuti zuva paGomo Everest makomo catastrophically rombo rakaipa. Vari kure shure kubva kuzviomesera purogiramu nemhaka yokuwanda vashanyi vaya akazviratidza panguva imwecheteyo pamusoro nzira. A nguva apo iwe aifanira kudzokera, yakanga kushayikwa. Avo kwasvika pamusoro pashure zvose, panzira shure vaiva yakasimba snowstorm uye kuwana simba kuburukira kumisasa.

Open guva Everest

Scott Fisher, ane muviri kwakawanikwa Anatoly yakagwamba nechando Boukreev May 11, 1996, akasiyiwa ari nzvimbo rufu rwake. Down kubva nekukwirira vanobatwa kwakaoma zvisingaiti. Kwapera gore, zvakare achidzokera Nepal, Anatoly Boukreev kubhadhara ruremekedzo wekupedzisira shamwari yake, uyo aionekwa yakanakisisa dzemakomo mukwiri America. Akafukidza muviri Fisher mabwe uye wakazviparadzanisa ake chinochechenya guva chando Sarudza.

Scott Fisher, ane muviri pamwe mitumbi anoverengeka vakundi vakafa Everest akavigwa panzvimbo rufu, vaigona kusunungurwa kuna rutsoka muna 2010. Zvadaro kwakasarudzwa kure sezvinobvira kubvisa gomo mawere kubva vaunganidza pamusoro makore marara uye vanoedza kudhonza chitunha. Chirikadzi Rob Hall vakasiya pfungwa, uye mukadzi wake Fishera Dzhinni aitarisira kuti muviri wake vachaparadzwa cremated mujinga megomo vauraya iye. Asi Sherpas vakakwanisa kuwana uye musunungure zvasara mamwe makomo maviri. Scott Fisher uye Rob Hall kuramba Everest.

The kuratidzwa dambudziko iri Everest mune mabhuku uye mabhaisikopo

Vechikamu pamusoro chiitiko, wenhau Jon Krakauer, Anatoly Boukreev mukwiri Beck Weathers uye Gammelgaard Lin akanyora bhuku umo iye akataura pfungwa yake maonero.

Cinema vaisagona kuramba kure zvakadai aizobudirira misoro akafanana dambudziko paGomo Everest muna 1996. Muna 1997, John Krakaeura yokufungidzira yakaitwa firimu. Akaumba hwaro firimu "Rufu musi Everest."

Muna 2015, sefa kunze mufananidzo "Everest". Musoro rwendo "Mountain Upengo" reDare Dzheyk Dzhillenhol. Scott Fisher nechitarisiko akatarira zvishoma zvakasiyana (akanga blond), asi mutambi anonyatsovimba kukwanisa kuratidza simba uye aikwanisa kuti anoratidza mukwiri. Rob Hall airidza Dzheyson Klark. Mumufananidzo unogona kuona Kiru Naytli, Robin Rayt uye Sam Worthington.

Dzheyk Dzhillenhol (Scott Fisher mu firimu "Everest") ndezvevanhu muchikwata che vatambi vane unyanzvi ari kuwedzera pamberi vateereri. Mumakore maviri apfuura vakakwanisa kufadza mafeni dzavo mutambo mukuru "stringer" mifananidzo uye "Lefty". Dambudziko "Everest" hapana anosara. Firimu vaakagamuchira matunhu mavanga nevaimuteerera uye nevatsoropodzi. Vaiteerera nezvazvo uye makomo, vachiti vashoma zviduku zvikanganiso zviri kuratidza maitiro evanhu mune ezvinhu okisijeni nenzara.

Zvinobatsira here upenyu hwevanhu kurota?

Chido panguva yakakwirira nyika kunonzwisisika. Asi Scott Fisher uye Rob Hall, mukuru-pamwero nenyanzvi, akaratidza simba uye azvipe vavariro yaro vatengi. A gomo asingakanganwiri zvikanganiso.