Pattern nemapfekero Raglan dzisimbe. Building muenzaniso Raglan dzisimbe

Kwenguva refu, nemhaka unyanzvi anokunyengedzera tailors vaida kumeso kwake akarayira, yakanga yakagadzirwa Raglan ruoko. Zvakanaka chifukidzo mufananidzo zvikanganiso uye anobvumira zvokusona rokusika yokusvika padariro kuvakwa mapatani sezvo Modelling pamusoro pakadzika, zvakasiyana siyana uye mhando mapfundo kubatsira kukura hwokusika pfungwa.

nyaya

Izvi rworudzi chekawo anonzi pashure Field Marshal Baron Raglan, vakanga varasikirwa ane ruoko panguva pahondo Napoleon Bonaparte I apo akarwa, panguva Hondo Waterloo muna 1815. Nokuti iye, muenzaniso chaiyo pakati dzisimbe kuvanza drawback ichi yakavakwa. Asi dzimwe nyika dzinoverengeka dziri kurwira ushasha rakasikwa muenzaniso ruoko yakadaro.

The kutaurwa nzira yakadaro rokutanga, imwe chekawo inowanikwa Chirungu mabhuku nepakati namapfumbamwe remakore, kumwe muna 1862. Zvinofungidzirwa kuti gurukota nguva Raglan kuvamba yakanga panguva Crimean War (makore 1853-1856). Chisarudzo ichi tailors okunze spodvigla zvakaipa pamusoro Peninsula. Persistent mvura zvikuru mwoyo mauto, uye kusavapo vazvo pamusoro nguo akapa mukana kuti munhu haazombovi kunyorova. Nokuti mauto akanga asina kunyanya kuchinja, kunyange zvazvo pakuonekwa chimiro ichiri zvishomanene.

Asi pane zvinhu hunopesana shanduro British kuti vakwire aine ruoko magadzirirwo. On rimwe watercoloured ose Artist Fedor Solntsev, akanyorwa muna 1842, inoratidza musikana ari nezvakarukwa hembe, mumwe chekawo ane chaiwo Raglan dzisimbe.

Kazhinji, nyaya yose iyi haisi kuwanikwa nhasi. Asi zvizvarwa, zvinoita sokuti, uye harisi zvakakodzera kuziva kuti zuva apo akanga afunga imwe nzira Modelling. Chinhu chikuru - kuti kukwanisa kushandisa kuti zvakavanakira.

mhando Raglan

Kune okunatsiridza inoverengeka nzira rokutema zvikamu, kunyange kune kupatsanura, izvo yakaumbwa pamusoro huru chikonzero.

Kuumba armholes:

• Typical Raglan - armhole ichipfuura pamutsipa hauna nenhongonya ayo uye repasi nehafu kusvika masendimita maviri.
• Zero Raglan - armhole mutsetse ichipfuura pahuro pamberi uye backrest vaaisangana panguva pamakona (vertices).
• Polureglan - armhole rinotanga kubva pakati pamafudzi isingatsiki mutsipa.
• Raglan-dzingirira - armhole anofambisa akaererana bandauko, chokuchinja kupinda mutsetse armholes vtachnoy dzisimbe.
• Fantasy Raglan - ibatanidzo yakatarwa-ari maoko uye pajoko nzira kana huro Modelling.

Sleeve mhando:

• Haachaoni - nokuti rwakafara pamafudzi.
• Soft - nokuti yakatetepa.

Kuwanda stitches (zvichienderana kuvakwa muenzaniso):

• Single-musono.
• Double-musono.
• Three-musono.

Kusarudza siluetti

Dress Raglan ane inoshamisa pfuma kuti masiki zvinokanganiswa munhukadzi nhamba. Izvi ndezvechokwadi kunyanya rwakafara kana akanyanya rakamanikana pamafudzi. Zvichienderana sei rwonzi kana Ukuwo kanopi Raglan mutsetse kunogona nemaziso yakamanikana kana kukudza repamusoro mutumbi. Nokudaro chiuno hakuzoitiki wo paupamhi kubva optionally akacheka akasununguka siluetti bulking pamafudzi.

Chii Raglan?

Izvi mhando ruoko, iro modeled uye richivezwa pamwe fudzi chikamu musana pasherefu uye ramangwana zvigadzirwa. Kana klassiske shanduro isu kusona ruoko kuti armhole uye tinovimba kuti achazviita akarara pasi zvakanaka uye haangazvidembi kuumba pazvirugu, pano hatigoni sikuruwa kukwira, nokuti hakudi chinhu ironed, prisobirat uye chipikiri.

Construction hoses

Pattern pfeka ne Raglan ruoko rinotanga chivakwa avaiita. Kana iwe watova akagadzirira akagadzirwa siyana panguva inosiyana, ichava yakanaka chishandiso kuti kushanda.

Papepa kuti kushandisa contours (zvakajairika zhinji newsprint) kusangomanikidzira mapatani huripo echiShinto uye ruoko, sezvamakaropafadzwa bandauko chikamu zvinobatana pamwe rokumusoro kumativi maoko nguva kuitira kuti paiva diki angled pakati pavo. kukura Izvi zvinogona zvakasiyana tisingatungamirirwi. Zvinoenderana pairi, dai sei convex pamusoro rapera chigadzirwa sleeve Raglan. Muenzaniso wakarovererwa nembambo. On pasherefu marongerwo cherechedza mutsipa pakati mugovane hafu. Kubva vakawana pfungwa (mutsipa 1/4) zvakanaka kuitisa mitsetse miviri: imwe armhole, mumwe kune ruoko. Saizvozvowo kudzokorora shure zvinhu.

Construction muenzaniso (Raglan) kwangopera. Zvazvinosarira chete kutamira zvose pamusoro yokuronda mapepa, zvidimure uye ronga pamusoro jira.

Second pachake muenzaniso

Kana nzira yokutanga zvaunazvo chero nezvikonzero, havagutsikani kana sezvakanyanyonakisa yainetsa unogona kushandisa imwe. Haasi zvakare nyore, asi dzimwe nguva zviri nani kuti Modelling ari siluetti.

Kuvakwa yacho ruoko muenzaniso Raglan muchiitiko ichi chinotanga mufananidzo pamusoro yokuronda mapepa munhuwo echiShinto mitsetse. Zvinonzi richivezwa, uye zvadaro "akavhara" zamu Tuck. Ndiko, pamusoro muenzaniso Triangle unotemwa, kuratidza nzvimbo nemutsunda, uye kumicheto nemutsipa uye armholes mukanamatira pamwechete. To chakuvhuvhu haangaiti avhiringidze, hunodzurwa nokuda Tuck nechemuchiuno uye incision duku unoitwa kubva pamusoro nerumbabvu kuti Tuck armhole. Zvino chipping yazvakabhedhenuka kuna achida upamhi. nzira iyi inonzi kutapurirana miseve. Zvadaro, kusvikira atova kuumbwa Musara akashandisa ruoko uye akadzokorora bata wokutanga musimboti. Yakapera kuvakwa zvezviitiko. Raglan sleeve unofanira kubudirira.

Prototyping nzira

It saka zvinoitika kuti aifanira kukurumidza kuwana mashoko uye tinker pamwe mapepa uye mapatani chete havana nguva. Zvadaro kuuya kuzonunura nzira iyi. Pattern nemapfekero Raglan maoko kwaswedera zvakananga kana akarayira pamusoro mannequin.

Chokutanga, hatifaniri kukanganwa kuti nokuti rinopindirana pakuvaka mutsetse pakati pamafudzi kunoita mberi zvishoma pamusoro sendimita, uye ichibuda shure pamutsipa millimeters shanu. Kamwe uri mannequin yako akavhara Tuck zvose pasherefu uye shure, nokubatanidza mutsetse achicheka ruoko netambo pamusoro armhole uye Raglan dorisovyvat. You zvino vanofanira zviviri ruoko zvikamu, akaparadzaniswa noruoko midline kure-pakati.

Kutaura zvazviri, isu kare akapiwa Raglan ruoko. Muenzaniso iyi ine webetsero hunhu, kana tenzi nechokwadi yakarurama pamusoro Kutamiswa miseve.

Kids Raglan

On dandies diki uye madzimai chimiro ichi dzisimbe anotarisirawo kunobatsira chaizvo. Uye madhirezi yamunenge kana paine vazvo kuti kudzivisa kusununguka kufamba. Muenzaniso Raglan vana kuri nyore zvikuru kupfuura nedzevakuru. Hapana miseve, unofanira vatevedzere, sezvo mufananidzo mwana hauna raidudzwa Bends uye bulges.

Pattern nemapfekero Raglan dzisimbe kuti vasikana ndechokuti mapatani pamusoro echiShinto zvakaenzana vakakamukana neckline kupinda nepedyo. Zvadaro kuona pfungwa pamusoro armhole, izvo rinongova pamusoro chityu mutsetse, uye kubatanidza Dots mutsetse kumeso, pasi anopfuura kupinda armhole. On the musana, unogona kuita chete achirurama mutsetse kubva kumativi ari pamutsipa kusvika chipfuva mutsetse (pakati armhole).

Zvino zvinoita kuumba ruoko. Nokuti ichi SWEDERA trapezoid umo mativi - a Raglan kureba iri seri pasherefu uye, musoro - parutivi mutsipa ane amutsa mutsetse uri backrest 05, -1 sendimita akaenzanisa mumasekonzi pamberi, uye rezasi divi iri denderedzwa chidimbu. Pashure nzvimbo mapatani pamusoro Mucheka anogona richivezwa uye kusona Finished chigadzirwa.

Pattern nemapfekero Raglan dzisimbe kuti mwana uye munhu mukuru hakuna kunyanya kuoma, kunyange tenzi ruzivo.

inivhoyisi

Ugopfekedza Raglan (mufananidzo zvakabatanidzwa) inogona vasonanidza kubva gobvu uye yakagadzirwa munyoro, inoyerera micheka kuti usimbise siluetti. Designers zvino vanoda chokubatanidza reganda maoko pamwe Micheka zvakasikwa, majini vane guipure kana organza, pachena mavara uye yakajeka, asingakanganwiki mifananidzo. Kazhinji, kukura kwebasa nokuti okugadzira zvinhu risingaperi. The nyore uye kukwanisa kucheka priladit kuti chero mhando nechipi chinotanga yakawanda mikana.

Uyezve, pamwe Raglan maoko vanogona kusona kwete chete madhirezi asiwo Shirts, blouses, Mabhachi. Izvi mberi anowedzera kuwanda kuita. Saka Usangotaura, nokusika uye katyamadza vamwe. Tinovimba kuti nyaya ino ichakubatsira kuwana munyaya iyi.